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| RABAT The fourth of the imperial cities, Rabat is a curious mix of a long past and a highly modernised present. The city's glory days were in the 12th century, when the then sultan used the kasbah (citadel) as a base for campaigns against the Spanish. It was during this time that the city's most famous landmarks sprang up. A haven for Muslims driven out of Spain in the early 17th century and a capital city only since the days of French occupation, Rabat's ambience comes from Islam and Europe in fairly equal proportions. For every place of worship there are three or four European-style cafes. Few of Rabat's residents are involved in the tourist racket, which means you can stroll through the markets without having to brace yourself against too much high-pressure salesmanship. The city's most famous site is the Tour Hassan, the incomplete minaret of the great mosque begun by Yacoub al-Mansour. An earthquake brought construction to a halt in 1755. Alongside is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the present king's father. The Kasbah des Oudaias, built on the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, houses a former palace which is now a museum of traditional art. Beyond the city walls are the remains of the ancient city of Sala. Also known as Chella, it has Morocco's best Archaeology Museum. Between the city's landmark central park (Jardins Triangle de Vue) and the main train station, you'll find most of Rabat's hotels and eating spots. The most obvious cluster of cafes and bars here offer up all the beer, kababs, pizza, olives and ice cream you might need. The Mohammed V international airport is a short ride east of the city and there are plenty of shuttle buses. CASABLANCA Of all the cities in all the world, Hollywood chose this one to immortalise as the classic exotic colonial outpost. Those looking for a latter-day Humphrey Bogart round every corner will be disappointed. This is no sleepy dive. Morocco's largest city and industrial centre, it's a huge brash metropolis where traditional Moroccan burnouses (cloaks) seem out of place among the natty suits and designer sunglasses. This port city was deep in decline until the French decided to remodel it with wide boulevards, public parks and imposing Mauresque (Moorish) civic buildings. Casablanca's medina, or ancient quarter, is worth a look and the Hassan II Mosque here is one of the largest in the world. At the square known as the Place Mohammed V you'll find the country's most impressive examples of Mauresque architecture. 'Casa' shares the Mohammed V airport with Rabat, and regular flights are available to and from Europe and the Middle East. Marrakech One of Morocco's most important cultural centres, Marrakech is a lively former capital famed for its markets and festivals. Its wildly beating heart is the Place Djemaa el-Fna, a huge square in the old city. Rows of open-air food stalls are set up here and mouth-watering aromas fill the air. Jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers, magicians, acrobats and assorted benign lunatics take over the rest of the space. The souqs (markets) here are among the best in Morocco and a large budget hotel strip makes exploring the old city area cheap and easy. Among the many attractions of the ancient quarter is the rare Almoravid-style Koubba Ba'adiyn mosque annex, the magnificent Koutoubia mosque and the Palais Dar Si Said (Museum of Moroccan Arts). Trains and buses to this inland city run regularly from Casablanca and Rabat. FÈS The oldest of the imperial cities, Fès is arguably the symbolic heart of Morocco. Its labyrinthine streets and crumbling grandeur add to its air of intrigue and self-importance. The medina of Fès el-Bali (Old Fès) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world and the gates and walls that surround it make it all the more magnificent. Unlike many walled cities of this vintage, Old Fès hasn't burst its banks. The population has instead exploded out towards the south-west and spread to the hillsides in an arc stretching north and south of the new city. Within the old city, tucked among roughly 9,400 streets and alleys, is the towering Medersa Bou Inania, a theological college built in 1350. Not far from here the henna souq is a market specialising in the dye used for colouring hair and tattooing women' hands and feet. Next door to the old walled city is Fès el-Jdid, home to the city's Jewish community and many spectacular buildings. In between the two self-contained cities is the Dar Batha, now the Museum du Batha. Fès is best reached by train from Rabat, Marrakech or Tangier. TANGIER While it's a compelling sort of city and a popular port of entry for tourists, Tangier is also home to some of the world's best hustlers. Perched on Morocco's northern tip, its international flavour remains strong; as does its reputation for inspiring shady deals and foreign misfits. The city's central Petit Socco is the focus of attention. Back in the days when Tangier was a neutral international zone, this area provided the background for the seediest of lifestyles and it hasn't completely lost this air. Paedophile scenes aside, it is the kasbah that interests many visitors. It contains the 17th-century Dar el-Makhzen, the former sultan's palace and now a good museum. The nearby American Legation Museum is a fascinating reminder that Morocco was the first country to recognise American Independence. Tangier is five hours from Rabat by train, and an easy ferry ride from Spain or Gibraltar. |
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