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Republica Argentina Area: 2,776,890 sq km (1,083,000 sq mi) Population: 37,812,817 Capital city: Buenos Aires (pop 16 million) People: 85% European descent, 15% mestizo, Indian and other minorities Language: American Spanish, plus 17 indigenous languages Religion: 93% Roman Catholic, 2.5% Protestant, 2% Jewish, 1.5% Ukranian Catholic, 1% Armenian Orthodox Government: Republic Major industries: Food processing, motor vehicles, consumer durables, textiles, chemicals and petrochemicals, printing, metallurgy, steel, agribusiness  Mention
Argentina, and people think of solitary gauchos, sultry tango dancers
or maybe Madonna emoting as Evita. Or at least they used to, before
those romantic icons were supplanted by television images of people looting
supermarkets and banging on pots and pans during massive and occasionally
violent protests. Argentina certainly has plenty to cry about, with an
economy on the verge of collapse and a revolving-door government that
saw five presidents in two weeks. How did this happen to a country blessed
with abundant natural resources and a highly educated populace? Decades
of political corruption, rampant tax evasion and ill-advised monetary
policies are all to blame; the challenge now is for the country to pull
itself out of the hole and avoid further chaos.But despite its current woes, the romance of Argentina remains. The country boasts a wide variety of cultural attractions, but for many travelers, its natural wonders are the primary draw. From the northern deserts to the southern Andean Cordillera, from Iguazú Falls to the magnificent desolation of Patagonia, Argentina's geography is varied and stunning. For cosmopolitan types, there's the elegant capital, Buenos Aires. This fabulous city is renowned for its sophistication, although travelers expecting a more 'South American' experience are sometimes disappointed with its European feel. Argentina is one Latin American country where Europeans and North Americans can feel at ease and travel relatively inconspicuously. An interest in soccer and some nimble foot skills may be all you need to feel like a local - that, or a three-hour wait at a currency exchange. Facts for the Traveler : Visas: Most foreigners do not need visas and, in theory, are issued free, renewable 90-day tourist cards on arrival. Health risks: Cholera and dengue fever are hazards in the subtropical north Time: GMC/UTC minus 3 hours; Buenos Aires observes daylight-saving time Electricity: 220V, 50Hz Weights & measures: Mostly metric, but rural areas may use the legua (league, about 5 km). Weather : For residents of the northern hemisphere, Argentina offers the inviting possibility of enjoying two summers in the same year, but the country's great variety and elongated geography can make a visit in any season worthwhile. Buenos Aires' urban attractions, for example, transcend the seasons, but Patagonian destinations, such as the Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz, are best to visit in the summer months (December to February). The Iguazú Falls in subtropical Misiones province are best in the southern hemisphere's winter or spring when heat and humidity are less oppressive. The winter months (mid-June to late September) also offer the opportunity to go skiing. Events : Surprisingly, Argentina has few festivals and fiestas, and most public holidays reflect the Roman Catholic liturgical calendar. Things come to a stop over the Christmas to New Year and Easter periods. Saints' days and provincial holidays are other important events, as are 25 May (commemorating the May Revolution of 1810), Malvinas Day (10 June) and Columbus Day (12 October). Money & Costs : Currency: Peso ($) Until recently, Argentina was an expensive country to visit - so expensive that Argentines were in the habit of taking their holidays in 'cheap' countries, like the USA. The economic policy that pegged the peso one-to-one to the US dollar kept prices high but inflation under control. The recent devaluation of the peso means that all bets are off. At present, the peso has shrunk to about half the value of the US dollar, and it's anyone's guess as to how much further it may drop when banking restrictions are eased. This could translate to bargains for budget travelers, but that's only if inflation remains in check. Right now, the government is urging businesses not to raise their prices, as rampant inflation would plunge the already fragile economy into chaos. In the 1970s and '80s, inflation consistently exceeded 100% per year and was often much higher, reaching an astounding 5000% in 1989. Given Argentina's history of economic instability, savvy travelers should keep a watch on the exchange markets and on economic events. US dollars are no longer accepted officially, but there's such a run on dollars at the moment that many shopkeepers would be glad to take them. You'll get a better rate at an official cambio, but be prepared to wait in line for several hours. Not surprisingly, there's a thriving black market in currency exchange, mostly for US dollars but also for Euros. Avoid the black market - not only is it illegal, but you might end up with counterfeit pesos. Travelers should bring some of their own currency and change it into pesos little by little. ATM withdrawals that reflect the current exchange rate are the best way to keep up with the fluctuating value of the peso. Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted credit cards, but don't rely on them - some travelers have reported problems getting vendors to accept credit cards these days. The same goes for traveler's checks. Tipping around 10% is customary in restaurants. Bargaining is uncommon, except in the artisan markets of the Andean northwest. Getting There & Away : Argentina has excellent worldwide air connections, with Aeropuerto Internacional Ezeiza, outside Buenos Aires, the main international airport. A departure tax of US$23.50 (plus 21% IVA) is payable on international flights; the tax is US$5 (plus 21% IVA) on flights to Uruguay. Note that all taxes and costs will be up in the air until the monetary crisis sorts itself out. If you're arriving at the Ezeiza airport, there are several buses you can take to Buenos Aires. The buses take a while (up to 2 hours if traffic is bad), but they're a cheaper option than taxis, especially considering the recent taxi scams. A multitude of land and river crossing points connect Argentina with neighboring Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay, Bolivia and Chile. Travel from Chile usually involves a hike through the Andes, while overland travel to Bolivia can go through the border towns of La Quiaca, Tarija or Pocitos/Yacuiba. Paraguay can be reached by bus and/or river launch, and the most common crossing to Brazil is via Foz do Iguaçu or Uruguaiana. Uruguay is linked to Argentina by road bridges, and ferries sail between Buenos Aires and Colonia in Uruguay. Getting Around : Five major Argentine airlines attempt to make this big country appear smaller: privatized Aerolíneas Argentinas handles domestic as well as international routes, while Austral covers domestic routes only. Línea Aéreas Privadas Argentinas (LAPA) competes with Austral and Aerolíneas on many domestic routes. Líneas Aéreas del Estado (LADE), the air force's passenger service, serves mostly Patagonian destinations. Dinar serves smaller domestic destinations. Discount deals and passes are advisable as fares are expensive. In some cases, however, flying can be cheaper than covering the same distance by bus. Domestic flights carry a departure tax of around US$6 (including 21% IVA). Long-distance buses are fast and comfortable; some even provide on-board meal services. However, fares are expensive and fluctuate wildly. Private operators have assumed control of the formerly state-owned railways, but have shown little interest in providing passenger service except on commuter lines in and around Buenos Aires. The provinces of Río Negro, Chubut, Tucumán and La Pampa continue to provide much-reduced passenger service. Attractions : Buenos Aires To the city's poet laureate, Jorge Luis Borges, Buenos Aires was as eternal as air and water. To many Argentines, their capital city is synonymous with the country itself - indeed, nearly 40% of the population lives in the city or its massive, sprawling suburbs. Buenos Aires is situated on the banks of the Río de la Plata. A city transported from its European parents, its compact and regular center is reminiscent of Paris, and its tree-lined avenues and frequent plazas have a beguiling, faded elegance.  In this cosmopolitan city, sophisticated dressers mingle with the shabbier unemployed from the surrounding suburbs. Downtown, the Plaza de Mayo is the traditional focus of activity, and lately has been the scene of mass protests against the government's handling of the economic crisis. Nearby Avenida 9 de Julio is popularly known as the world's widest thoroughfare and is truly a pedestrian's nightmare. Avenida Santa Fe is the most fashionable shopping area. Buenos Aires' attractions include the Catedral Metropolitana, which contains  the
tomb of revolutionary hero José de San Martín; the Teatro
Colón, a world-class facility for opera, ballet and classical
music, and a cluster of worthwhile and popular museums like the Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes, the Museo del Cine and the
Museo Histórico Nacional, which presents a panorama of the Argentine
experience. Don't miss the colorful Italian suburb of La Boca,
which features brightly painted wooden houses lining the Riachuelo
waterway, or the Cementerio de la Recoleta, a testament to the
national passion for death.Buenos Aires is an expensive city, but whether you're after a bargain hostel or a top-end hotel, it is possible to stay right in the center of things. Congreso is a good place to look for inexpensive lodgings, while mid-range hotels are concentrated on Avenida de Mayo. Food bargains can be had in the suburbs of La Boca and San Telmo. Downtown, Lavalle and Avenida Corrientes are the places to go for pizza, coffee with the city's intellectuals or one of those ubiquitous meaty dishes. Mar del Plata  Summer
means the beach to the inhabitants of Greater Buenos Aires, and Mar del
Plata is most often the beach they have in mind. Situated on the northern
Atlantic coast, 400km (228mi) from the capital, beaches in this area sprawl
for 8km (5mi). Sophisticated mansions from the area's heyday as an upper-class
resort mingle with the newer, more modest resorts catering to middle-class
porteños. Sea lions keep an eye on the fishing activities around
the wharves, and a replica of the grotto of Lourdes is a kitsch paradise.Córdoba Argentina's second city, Córdoba, long rivaled Buenos Aires for political, economic and cultural supremacy; indeed, while Buenos Aires languished through neglect in the 17th century, Cordoba was the country's architectural treasure house. Today, a fine collection of colonial buildings is concentrated in its compact center. They include the old market, the Iglesia Catedral (featuring a Romanesque dome) and the Jesuit Iglesia de la Compañía. The Museo Histórico Provincial Marqués de Sobremonte is one of the most important historical museums in the country. The Pampas The unrelentingly flat Pampas is Argentina's agricultural heartland and the home of that symbol of romantic nationalism, the gaucho. Comprising the provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa and major parts of Santa Fe and Córdoba, its varied environments include forested hills, extensive grasslands and flamingo-flecked salt lakes. The Parque National Lihué Calel is a popular detour, with wildlife including some puma and many guanaco, rhea, native hares and a variety of wild chinchilla called a vizcacha. The cities of La Plata, Luján (whose basilica to La Virgen de Luján receives 4 million pilgrims a year), Rosario and Santa Fe are worth seeing for their many museums, churches and faded colonial buildings. Iguazú Falls  Situated
in the Parque Nacional Iguazú near Puerto Iguazú,
these spectacular falls lie just east of the confluence of the Iguazú
and Paraná rivers. At least 5000 cubic m (176,570 cu ft) of water
per second plunge the 70m (230ft) into the abyss below. If they look familiar,
it's because they were the supporting actors in the film The Mission;
appropriately, the area has historic ruins of Jesuit missions which also
draw many visitors. San Ignacio Miní, built in a style of
architecture known as 'Guaraní baroque', is especially popular.
Above the falls, the waters are suitable for canoeing, kayaking and other
water sports. The surrounding park is home to 55,000 hectares (135,850
acres) of pristine subtropical rainforest, with abundant wildlife and
plant species.Activities : Just one example of the prevailing Italian influence is the importance placed on soccer, by far the country's most popular spectator and participatory sport. Argentina also has oodles of activity sports such as trekking, skiing and watersports. Elite sports such as rugby and polo reflect the influence of the country's immigrant societies, and skiing, despite its expense, is gaining in popularity. Argentina actually has some of the best skiing in the world, and many of the resorts have ski schools. There are several major skiing areas: the southern Cuyo region, the Lake District, La Hoya and near Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego. Wilderness walks are also very popular, with vast and beautiful treks through the Andes, Sierras de Córdoba and the Sierra de la Ventana in Buenos Aires province. Climbers should head for Aconcagua, west of Mendoza, the Fitzroy Range in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in Santa Cruz province, and the Sierra de la Fentana (for advanced climbing). White-water rafting is becoming increasingly popular on the rivers that descend from the Andean divide; the main possibilities include Río Mendoza and Río Diamante in the Cuyo region, Río Hua Hum and Río Meliquina near San Martín de los Andes and the Río Limay and Río Manso near Bariloche. |
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